And so we are finally back from our Texas road trip. Did not go exactly how we planned it. We did plan: Hill Country, Dude Ranch and some 'cowboy' experience. We got: a severe tropical storm named, mystically, Hermione and so much rain you could swim in it. Records were broken, we were soaked. So instead of Hill Country we did San Antonio, Austin, Houston, and we ended the trip in New Orleans.
San Antonio: the River Walk is definitely overrated, though there are true architectual gems to be observed in some not-so-well-trodden places. Example - look left.
Austin is a fun city - a real working city as opposed to San Antonio which felt like an artificial tourist trap. We had a great dinner at
Perry's Steakhouse, which is in an interesting historic
Norwood Tower, right in the heart of Austin. They have an impressive wine cellar (which one can actually admire while eating - shelves upon shelves of red and white, some even pink or bubbly, goodness. Our favourite place in Austin, though, was the State Capitol - what an impressive building! The things which impressed me most:
- its Renaissance Revival style
- the Capitol Building (which hosts the State Legislature (House and Senate), the State Governor, as well as the Supreme Court) is centred around a rotunda. Not only is the rotunda gorgeous to look at and a pleasure to stroll up and down, it also has portraits of all the Governors (yes, including the certain Mr Bush) in chronological order: so if you want to see the first one you must climb all the way to the top. They move them all, one by one, one position higher, with each outgoing Governor. It seems that one day they will run out of space.
This is me, very thoughtful in the Supreme Court room:
And yet another detail in the 'what impressed me most' series: the Capital Building is most increduously open and accessible to the public. I have visited a good few buildings of this type, including the European Commission and European Parliament, and some other European parliaments and courts, and have been screened and screened and screened... Plus, noone would even think of letting me in if I was not invited by 'someone on the inside'. Yes, official tours and such, but accessing the library, the Governor's official meeting room, even eating at the canteen with the members of State Senate? I like democracy Texas-style.
New Orleans and I probably did not get the best of introductions: it was college football night, and Bourbon Street swarmed with drunk football fans: strolling with drinks in hand, standing on balconies, screaming to people below, throwing things from balconies. Man, the place stunk! You think you understand? Let me illustrate. Imagine: you are in a crowded bus, next to a dude who's evidently had a few too many the night before and probably forgot to shower. When he yawns, you are on the receiving end of the sniff of last night's beer and cigarettes, perhaps even some remnants of kebab. Unforgettable experience. After a drink or two the smell somehow stops being a nuisance and starts 'setting the mojo, man'. But the rest of New Orleans, though hot and swampy, was interesting, charming, old, artsy, and green. Architecture lives up to the legends about it, the cemeteries are full of somber-looking, imposing tombs (no wonder the Interview with a Vampire was filmed there), and the voodoo, colourful, jazzy groove is scintillating.
The Garden District was my favourite part of New Orleans. We passed by the house of Anne Rice - the author of
Interview with a Vampire, and so many gorgeous historic houses that I lost count. On our way back we returned to Bourbon Street - much quieter this time (Sunday morning), and had an oyster and beer tour - not sure how many oysters and beer we've had: my best guess is 48 and 4 respectively. I am glad to say that no serious stomach perturbations followed and we are now safely home.